Customers at Harrods are nor exactly spoiled for choice in any department, including gastronomy, but now Ladurée est arrivée and another flight of fancy is available to the seriously wealthy and those who would be.

Ladurée has its roots in a modest tearoom in Paris in 1862, since when it has become a by-word for all that it is luxurious in the way of pastries and cakes. The only surprising this is that it has taken so long to reach the august portals of Harrods.

Now that it has, the opportunity is being exploited to the full. The concept of afternoon tea and all that goes with is still what keeps the name on the boil, but lunch and dinner are now on the cards. To exploit the mood there are three spaces from which to choose, a parlour in a rather fetching grey, another done out in red velvet and a dramatic dining room of Stygian blackness relieved by effusions of mercury and large blackamoors with silver loin cloths.

But whatever else you may go for it really is the cakes that predominate with their internationally renowned macaroons well to the fore. Observers of indulgence will be glad to know that it is now possible, with a bit of luck, to choose the colour of macaroon to match your shoes.