Edinburgh seems to abound in what might be termed quality chippies, which makes the demise of a certain popular chain example down by the water even more strange, particularly as the Glasgow version continues to thrive. There must be one of those Glasgow-v-Edinburgh analogies to be drawn here. Anyway L'Alba has to be in the top flight of its kind, furthermore it has other attractions attached, such as a very credible off-licence, and a sandwich and pizza bar with superb Italian coffee and yet another off-licence. Are there friendly family rivalries at work I wonder?

This is certainly not one of those thick batter with fish establishments. Great care and precision is exercised in producing a perfectly cooked range of fish, both well-known and more obscure. However, the days of crocodile and chips are past and squid, swordfish and shark are more likely to represent the exotica now, though the chips retain their special quality. Filipo Crolla, very much the working proprietor has been using the same supplier for over a quarter of a century, which suggests a certain confidence that is clearly shared by his many customers and friends.