Landau, The

Habitués of places of character, particularly restaurants may well return to the former BBC building in Lang ham Place and be completely thrown by the changes that have taken place. Once more an elegant hotel, The Langham has naturally given pride of place to its stunningly, if that doesn't sound too much of a contradiction, attractive restaurant.

David Collins Studio has been able to give their creative talents free rein, with the result that the London rail station décor has been eradicated for ever and the former ballroom, with its spectacular views from the great bow window is now a symphony of restful shades that sooth away the less agreeable aspects of London life.

The same influence has been brought to bear on Artesian, the glamorous new cocktail bar, with more than a frisson of the Far East in the décor, and what is essentially a gourmet grazing menu available throughout the day

The advent of Andrew Turner as Head Chef has been a triumph. With a distinguished career already established, Andrew's most recent tour de force  was at The Latymer restaurant at Pennyhill Park Hotel, where he attained a 3-star rosette standard.

From the à la carte dinner menu three delightful classic dishes make an unequivocal statement amongst the starters, and depending upon the season these could be Cornish crab and avocado, lemon myrtle and pickled apple purée or pressed Landes foie gras and smoked duck, with passion fruit and vanilla.

Pumpkin soup, cèpes and quail egg, or Anjou pigeon breast and confit leg with vine tomatoes and caper dressing could be amongst the specialities before progressing to the entrees, where poached Scottish lobster with cèpes, bacon and butter onions sets the standard. From the Castle of Mey estate comes grilled Angus beef fillet and crispy braised cheek with salsify, lardoons and tarragon.

An imaginative range of side orders includes green beans and almonds, buttered artichokes and creamed spinach. What a joy it is to see vegetables increasingly being treated as worthy of due care and attention, even if it is at the sacrifice of a few calories. I keep telling myself that the good far outweighs the no-so-good. And in any case they are grown at Secretts Farm in not so distant Surrey

Granny Smith (what a lot that lady has to answer for) millefeuille and sherbert with chocolate oil makes a welcome interpretation of a lady of legend, but for sheer indulgence head for the toffee cheese cake, pineapple and coconut ice cream.  Cheese, too, is taken seriously at The Landau with a choice between British and French, Stilton and apple or Roquefort and passion fruit.

No surprise that with Andrew Turner at the helm grazing menus are at the forefront, ranging from five to eight courses. Take the five-course, with its blend of flavours that steers through salad with quail egg, fillet of mackerel, Scottish halibut, roast breast of duck and some more of that toffee cheesecake.

Sommelier Zack Saghir completes the duo that is now operating one of the most significant of London's temples to eating.

For up to the minute menu changes and other information click on their Website.