Landau, The

Habitués of places of character, particularly restaurants may well return to the former BBC building in Langham Place and be completely thrown by the changes that have taken place. Once more an elegant hotel, The Langham has naturally given pride of place to its stunningly, if that doesn't sound too much of a contradiction, attractive restaurant.

David Collins Studio has been able to give their creative talents free rein, with the result that the London rail station décor has been eradicated for ever and the former ballroom, with its spectacular views from the great bow window is now a symphony of restful shades that sooth away the less agreeable aspects of London life.

The same influence has been brought to bear on Artesian, the glamorous cocktail bar, with more than a frisson of the Far East in the décor, and what is essentially a gourmet grazing menu available throughout the day.

The advent of Andrew Turner as Head Chef has been a triumph. With a distinguished career already established, Andrew's most recent tour de force was at The Latymer restaurant at Pennyhill Park Hotel, where he attained a 3-star Rosette standard.

From the à la carte dinner menu three delightful classic dishes make an unequivocal statement amongst the starters, and depending upon the season these could be Cornish crab and avocado with savoury crumble and pickled apple puree, or pressed Landes foie gras with almond and Parmesan marshmallows, pear chutney and brioche.

Amongst entrees English lamb cutlets with red pepper boulangère, spinach and pesto velouté set the standard. From Orkney come seared scallops with caramelised cauliflower purée, black pudding, capers and raisins.

An imaginative range of side orders include fennel and apple salad, mousseline potatoes and buttered spinach. What a joy it is to see vegetables increasingly being treated as worthy of due care and attention, even if it is at the sacrifice of a few calories.

For sheer indulgence at dessert time head for the toffee cheesecake, pineapple and coconut ice cream, and crème brûlée with strawberries and lemongrass. Cheese, too, is taken seriously at The Landau with a choice between artisanal British and French cheeses.

No surprise that with Andrew Turner at the helm grazing menus are at the forefront, ranging from five to eight courses. Take the seven-course, with its blend of flavours that steer through sweet pea velouté, foie gras and apple, mango egg and white and milk chocolate mousse cake with raspberry and mint.

Sommelier Zack Saghir completes the duo that is now operating one of the most significant of London's temples to eating.

For up to the minute menu changes and other information click on their Website.