Langtry's is part of the restaurant at the Cadogan Hotel, where the Head Chef is Robert Lyons, formerly of Millennium Bailey's in Kensington. The idea seems to be to create a not so little English enclave in amongst the rather grandiose surroundings that are much enhanced by an original chandelier, sculpted ceilings, a magnificent Louis XIV fireplace, vast mirrors and some rather nice red velvet banquettes that would look very much at home in a genuine French bistro. Lily Langtry, the Victorian actress who lived here would have approved.

The menu is not so grand and much more simple English, with toad-in-the-hole and crackling, beef tea, chicken faggot, curried mussels and lentils, roasted brill, cockle and bacon cawl, followed up with a trio of blancmange. Pork pie and pickles also makes an appearance, along with grilled mackerel and pickled mushrooms, melted Hampshire Turnworth cheese on roasted walnut bread, and creamed cauliflower soup with London Pride real ale rarebit.

Puddings, as you can imagine, are a riot, with sticky toffee, bread and butter, spotted dick and whiskey butter ice cream as one of the high spots. Warm apple and blackberry pie is a winner, and the line up of British cheese varies according to the market with predictably fascinating surprises. A wine list of considerable character seems designed to meet every reasonable taste and situation.