Lyonnais opened in 1986, since when it has been joined by Le Bouchon Borderlaise, jointly making a sound contribution to those in London who like their food and drink to have more than a smattering of France about it. Nor does it stop there, with the décor reflecting a good Gallic influence as well.

Start with traditional fish soup with saffron scented garlic mayonnaise, a good fleshy broth of the sea, twelve snails cooked in garlic and parsley butter, a ballotine de Foie Gras maison served with honey and muscat jelly and toasted farmhouse bread, or six fine Claire oysters with Tabasco and shallot vinegar.

There is always a good selection of fish, perhaps poached monkfish in red wine, crispy bacon, with a beurre blanc surround, before moving on to duck leg and pork belly, cooked slowly in duck fat, with white beans in a tomato, onion and garlic ragout. For those with ample appetites the tournedos Rossini await, accompanied by a rich truffle sauce, or Chateaubriand for two, the great classic dish with French fries, salad and a choice of Bearnaise or green pepper sauce.

A cellar of truly heroic proportion and content awaits the connoisseur, indeed it is worth booking a table just to indulge in the odd bottle or three, perhaps backing this up with some modest contributions from the attractive bar menu.