Taking its name from the celebrated 19th century Parisian restaurant, Le Café Anglais, in Porchester Gardens, sets out to celebrate the relationship between our two cuisines without the nudge-nudge so often associated with that liaison. The vast, 7,000ft square space, taken over by Rowley Leigh, one of Britain's most cerebral chefs, with business partner Charlie McVeigh, is styled the 1920s Parisian way, so plenty of banquettes, creams and beiges and sweeping dark red hangings.

With a rotisserie centre stage there are plenty of opportunities to become personally associated with your order, and the sense of theatre is omnipresent. From there and the kitchens all the dishes that you would expect to be on the menu emerge, such as mackerel teriyaki with cucumber salad, pike boudin with fine herbs and beurre blanc, a myriad of roasts, and plenty of those wonderful vegetables that the French have such a way with, transforming a nightmare into dishes that glow with attraction. Desserts tend to stay on the north side the Channel, with cherry savarin, queen of puddings and chocolate soufflé.

Such is the space that a good supply of people will be needed to give Le Café Anglais that 'full' buzz. Happily there is no indication that will be a problem, with prices that are realistic, a wine list likewise.