Le Cercle

London may well have more than its fair share of French restaurants but Le Cercle differs sufficiently from the rest to make it worthy of attention. First the setting, a tall basement only a short distance from Sloane Square, a space with which the designers have had a real field day, not entirely eliminating the feeling of being in a night club. The predominant material seems to be leather and the overall effect is not displeasing.

The menu draws on a several-sectioned approach starting with vegetables through fish, meat, traditional French country dishes, cheese and puddings. It is suggested that everyone should order somewhere between three to five savoury dishes which, given the average portion size is not unreasonable advice. Traditional dishes appear amongst a discreet selection of new interpretations. The crab shepherd's pie came across as a rather lost opportunity, but such old favourites as black pudding, or tender baby squid served with asparagus and mangetout are well up to scratch.

Le Cercle has been described as a haven for ladies who lunch and this may well turn out to be the case, but it seems unlikely that too many of them will returning in the evening with their partners, unless they are taking a diet pretty seriously. However, it is early days and the general quality of the food and its presentation certainly has strong appeal.