Established by Frederick and Philipe in 1998, Petit Paris seeks to maintain l'entente cordiale, that mysterious umbilical cord that has bound together Scotland and France for several centuries now, not least via a common interest in matters of cuisine as well as rugby. Their Grassmarket, gaily-painted and bustling restaurant, with the customary blends of cellars and ground floor rooms offers traditional French cooking of a high standard.

Should we start with bouillabaisse, a Mediterranean fish soup with crouton, rouille and gruyère cheese or steamed mussels in bacon and cream sauce? The coq au vin is a test of any truly French restaurant and Petit Paris emerges with its head held high, exhibiting the sort of care and skills which are a feature of their daily performance. Or choose the 10oz prime Scottish rib eye steak specially selected from the Buccleuch Estates. Last but by no means least, save space for an irresistible crème brûlée.