Ledbury, The

It looks like residents of the leafy purlieus of Notting Hill are being knocked out by this latest addition to the ranks of restaurants and other places where they eat. The brainchild of Nigel Platts-Martin and his co-owner, Philip Howard, The Ledbury is bringing a whole new world into this area of good, but few if any, brilliant restaurants. Enter to an overwhelming ovation from massive areas of expensive dark wood, compelling chandeliers and accoutrements that suggest further east than west.

Clearly this is a place that means business, an impression given further substance by the knowledge that in the kitchens Brett Graham, a winner of Young Chef of the Year titles world-wide, is firmly in charge. His style comes through in such considerations as frog leg beignet and snail croustillant to watercress mayonnaise and port puree. Amongst other options look for the lasagne of rabbit and cep with thyme veloute. Main courses of assisette of veal, or fillet of halibut roasted in beurre noisette with a vinaigrette of raisins, pine nuts and cockles are well timed.

Desserts create a sensation and include chocolate soufflé with honeycomb and banana, with a scoop of ice cream brought to join it at the table. Front of house is handled by Helena Hell, whilst a lady sommelier in the form of Dawn Davies leaves provides ample evidence that yet another male bastion has been well and truly breached.

Any new restaurant that adds a handle to its name needs to be watched - in the case of The Ledbury it is for the best of reasons.

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