Lemon Tree, The

Finding somewhere good to eat in Oxford requires a fairly targeted programme with a good deal of insider savvy, so when The Lemon Tree reopened there was a more than average quota of curiosity stalking along Woodstock Road.

One might say the jury is still out, something the Oxford-based Inspector Morse would have fully understood, but initial reports suggests that a positive verdict will be delivered which will be good news for Oxford diners.

Clinton Pugh, the new owner has to remember only one thing - the client's views are what you need to care about, and since he has a good track record of doing just that, this is even better news. From outside the restaurant has a faintly Oriental domestic appearance, but it ends when you walk through the blue front door into a restaurant of great charm with plenty of starched linen and good taste kit around, well backed up by a warm and restful décor.

Expect starters along the lines of squid and chorizo, or lemon soup with saffron, followed by sea bass on risotto, or two roasted Lincolnshire pork bellies with parsnip mash. Puddings take much the same line, with a banana Bavarois with rum syrup and caramelised banana, or vanilla crème brûlées with almond pastry.

The food is well supported by a wine list that knows its way round the world, and staff who are interested in what they're doing, and show signs of caring about the customers in their keeping. Long may it last.