Located in a very traditional brick-built Essex gentleman's house this Chinese restaurant has achieved a reputation for excellence and high standards. They specialise in Pekingese and Szechwan cuisine, served in surroundings that are impeccably Oriental. One of their specialities is hand-carved vegetables, which strikes me as the ultimate sacrifice or extreme dedication. But very beautiful they are and you soon summon up the necessary sang froid to devour them. They also do excellent mornings when you can learn how to cook the proper way, followed by lunch, which is excellent value at £25. In the gastronomic desert which is Essex, with the customary notable exceptions, it is heartening to be able to number an ethnic cuisine amongst them.