Somehow one does not associate the throbbing conurbation of Basingstoke with 16th century buildings, but The Lime Leaf fits very well into its modest and friendly building, with a good blend of old and new.

Lime Leaf is run by a former diplomat, David Wyatt, whose experience in the Corps is now standing he and his wife Thian in good stead. On the menu expect to find some ten starters, with juicy crab and minced pork mixed with Thai herbs, wrapped in bean curd and served with sweet chilli sauce, or some very fine dim sum among them. The fisherman's spicy soup with mixed seafood, lemongrass, fresh chilli, lime juice, kaffir lime leaves and basil is a meal in itself.

Old Hands in the Diplomatic Service tend to return home with palates well settled on curries and the choice of six here is quite superb. The Thai duck, spicy duck in a chunky coconut based curry with bamboo shoots and peppers has it by a short head, but be warned, you will be spoiled for choice. Seafood gets the full fig here, and the sweet and sour fish must bring them in from miles away.

The desserts would do credit to a restaurant of any denomination and the wine list must rate amongst the most sensible and best value of its kind, with plenty by the glass and not a dodgy choice in sight. Perhaps it should be compulsory for restaurateurs who aspire, to do a spell of service in the far-flung outposts of some foreign lands. Kipling would have approved.