Lime Tree, The

Tired of the London art scene? Tired of London? Ignore advice about people who are tired of London and get the next flight to Scotland; Glasgow or Inverness will do fine. On landing pick up the car and head through some of Scotland's finest scenery to Fort William where, under one roof you can absorb contemporary Scottish art, some of the best of Scottish food, and a comfortable resting place at the end of the day.

Or go and do one of a hundred other things but make sure you return to the restaurant at the Lime Tree, where for starters at dinner you could find a ballotine of oak smoked and poached salmon with a new potato salad, crème fraiche and chive oil. And if the weather is not being kind look out for the pheasant, yellow split pea and winter vegetable broth with mushroom and bacon dumplings.

One iced pineapple granita later and you are making eye contact with a rib eye of Angus beef, with a ragout of oxtail, root vegetables and Burgundy jus, followed by chocolate mocha mousse with warm doughnuts, or a sticky date pudding with caramel sauce.

This being Scotland you will then find the most comfortable arm chair you can locate, and believe me you're spoilt for choice, and order up a long malt whiskey or three, by which time you will have reached the conclusion  there is little to be said for returning to London. Is there?