Linen Room, The

Those familiar with the corner of south-west Scotland in which Dumfries is located will know that fine dining can be a bit thin on the ground. It is even more of a pleasure therefore to come upon a restaurant of the quality of The Linen Room.

Parked in the shadow of St Michael's Kirk we strolled in to be warmly greeted and found a restaurant decorated in minimalist style, from which we looked over the bar and into the working kitchen behind. Not perhaps everybody's idea of eating out but if you wanted to get on first name terms with the chefs it's a cinch.

Instead we collared a window table at lunchtime and watched Dumfries go by whilst considering  the fixed price lunch, starting with an amuse bouche followed by parsnip veloute, cep and cumin oil, and blue cheese and balsamic panacotta, mizuna and croutons. Sea bass, shrimp risotto, rockette and myrtle foam provided an agreeable main course, followed by chocolate fondant, milk chocolate hazelnut ice.

With a clutch of Awards of the meaningful variety this excellent restaurant was the creation of Russell Robertson, Young Scottish Chef of the Year 2004, who has now moved on. However, members of the small but potent, experienced and respected team remain. They have not been slow to call upon the natural goodness which the area offers in such abundance, one of the foundation stones of their success. As Russell himself was wont to say, "When the ingredients are so good, you only have to compliment them as they serve themselves."

These include such specialities as the renowned local beef, the superb fish and shellfish brought ashore at Kirkcudbright, and organic lamb and local pork from Castle Douglas. All appear regularly in a range of menus that covers an a la carte, lunch, and seven-course taster experience.

Such events are not exactly commonplace - just listen to this as a sample of what the taster menu might have to offer. Terrine of ham hock, parsnip silk bon-bon of foie gras, hand dived Skye scallops, remoulade of celeriac and pear, Astina and Limon, Mr Little's pig and pumpkin, with tail, belly and fillet, smooth pumpkin and parmesan, followed by rhubarb ands custard, ginger and vanilla.

I shall refrain from mentioning the price for such an exotic experience, since it will add yet another dimension of pleasure to your visit. Unbelievable value! So gather a few like-minded friends to join you in this gastronomic experience, and away to Dumfries with you. And as if all this was not enough the wine list alone should justify an early visit.

There is an air of unshakeable excellence about The Linen Room, with each and every aspect of the business under control in a way that delivers natural and unobtrusive perfection. However, one cannot help but wonder how long a town of the size and inclinations of Dumfries can continue to support a restaurant of this worth.

Their Website, which is highly informative and friendly is of the same high standard.