If you are looking for a quiet spot to settle down with a cup of coffee and explore the Telegraph crossword, Lisboa is not for you. On the other hand you may feel that the mouthwatering delicacies, mainly of a café/tearoom type, justify the inconvenience and the frenetic noise. It's probably quieter in a Greek plate-throwing restaurant. In general terms the more comfort-seeking requirements of the average customer take second place, but with savouries and cakes like these who cares? As if that isn't enough be sure to try their coffee, which is of the sort that people dream about when they are misguided/desperate enough to patronise the supermarket café whilst out shopping.

Reviewed by Michael Tebbutt