In the centre of Newport (the Pembrokeshire one that is) stands a handsome traditional house that is fully tuned in to the culture of the area, and offers a warm welcome to guests and diners alike.

The menu is very conscious of local ingredients and dishes; look out for the crab cakes dressed with coriander and chilli, sea bass fillet on risotto, lamb cutlets marinated in garlic and served over a bed of Pernod-flavoured baby spinach, or pork stuffed with apricots and garden herbs, all served with generous helpings of vegetables that reflect the local gardens.

Puddings are a highlight here, made by a shadowy and clearly talented figure called Cecilia. It is rumoured that people travel from considerable distances to savour the fruits of her skills such as pannacotta with honey and liqueur, or her frangipane tart with cream. And that's before the possibilities of her cheeseboards have even been considered.

Local wine features on the List, service is unhurried. Doctor's Court makes a very convenient staging post if you are exploring that delightful coastal region of South Wales.