This fairly new addition to the London scene opened in March 2002, since when it has been hard to find an ill word said. Against a background strongly reminiscent of the permissive era of the swinging sixties/seventies with a dazzling interior created by the ubiquitous David Collins, virtually faultless (I only insert 'virtually' lest some infinitesimal fault has escaped attention) and inspired Italian food is served with the panache and deft touch that one associates with total confidence.

Nobody has elevated Italian food in London to the levels demonstrated at Locanda Locatelli, though the roots of Giorgio's cuisine are still in Italy, the culinary branches have sprouted all over the place, and homemade ingredients like wonderful tagliolini, varieties of ravioli and gnocchi impress everybody.

Giorgio Locatelli, who made his name during many years at Zafferano, is a precocious talent and is now displaying here all the promise he has shown in former places, though I have a feeling there is much, much more to come. Not only is the food sublime, it is also generous both in the quality of the ingredients and the amount on your plate and it is easy to see why your chances of turning up on the possibility of a table lend a new meaning to optimism.

At the 2003 Tio Pepe Carlton London Restaurant Awards Giorgio Locatelli won the Italian Restaurant of the Year title.