London is full of gastropubs now, all with their genesis in The Eagle on Farringdon Road, but they vary considerably. Some can lay scant claim to the title, but no such label could be attached to the Lord Palmerston in Tufnell Park North London.

There's a minimum of fuss, almost to the point of bareness with few distractions from the job in hand, and that includes some very good real ale on tap. The menu is on a blackboard and it's the one thing in the place that's perhaps a touch on the fancy side, but who will complain? Answer - not us, much too hungry for that.

So in the corner of Dartmouth Park Hill and Chetwynd Road you will discover a large Victorian building - welcome to the pub that is the Lord Palmerston. The refuge has a conservatory; the 'chapel', which is a converted stable, and the main bar, all excellent venues in which to relax, grab a paper and mingle with the local dog walkers after a walk on the heath. At night make sure you get in early enough to grab a table with a group of friends and lap up the lively Tufnell Park atmosphere.

A thoroughly wholesome menu, with well-cooked food, introduces more than a touch of elegance in execution. Think battered haddock, chips, pea puree and citrus tartare; sautéed chicken, spring onion and roasted garlic, jus; oyster mushrooms with white wine and parmesan risotto or dry-aged British rib eye steak with asparagus flan and hand cut chips, accompanied by a glass of Chateau Lescalle Bordeaux Superior. Indeed it would be possible to dream that some culinary TV star of the future might be out back there deftly creating good food and his own destiny - stranger things have happened.

With welcome contributions from Youngers there is a good wine list, service is prompt to the point that one would like to bring some of our more unhurried brethren along to see what proper service does for the customer, and the atmosphere is lively but not overwhelming. Any reluctant converts to the gastropub concept will have no problems here.

The elegant first floor dining room, lit by fires at night and naturally by day, is available for meetings, dinners and private parties.

Geronimo Inns own and run 28 pubs, each of which creates a warm home away from home atmosphere, where tasty food at affordable prices is available seven days a week. For more information, do visit their Website, which also has details of all the other pubs owned by Geronimo Inns.