Lord Palmerston

London is full of gastropubs now, some might say too full, all having their genesis in The Eagle on Farringdon Road, and they vary considerably. Some can lay scant claim to the title, but no such label can be attached to the Lord Palmerston. There's a minimum of fuss almost to the point of bareness and some very good real ale on tap. The menu is on a blackboard and it's the one thing in the place that's perhaps a touch fancy, but who will complain. Answer - not us, too hungry for that.

So in the corner of Dartmouth Park Hill and Chetwynd Road you will discover a large Victorian building, with a welcoming pub that is the Lord Palmerston. The refuge has a conservatory; the 'chapel', which is a converted stable, and the main bar, all excellent venues to kickback, grab the paper and mingle with the local dog walkers off the heath. At night make sure you get in early to grab a table with a group of friends and lap up the lively Tufnell Park atmosphere.

Whatever the menu may say the reality is thoroughly wholesome, well-cooked food, with more than a touch of elegance in execution. Think beer battered haddock, chips, minted pea puree and citrus tartare; chicken liver parfait and red onion jam; Portland crab bisque or dry-aged British rib eye steak, watercress, confit tomatoes and thick chips, accompanied by a small glass of Company Claret Chateau Lescalle Bordeaux Superior. Indeed it would be possible to suppose that some culinary TV star of the future might be out back there deftly creating good food and his own destiny, and stranger things have happened.

With welcome contributions from Youngers there is a good wine list, service is prompt to the point that one would like to bring some of our more unhurried brethren along to see what proper service does for the customer, and the atmosphere is lively but not cluttered. Reluctant converts to the gastropub concept will have no problems here.

The elegant first floor dining room, that is lit by fires at night and naturally by day, is available for meetings, dinners and private parties.

Owners Geronimo Inns run 22 pubs, each of which creates a warm home away from home atmosphere, where tasty food at affordable prices is available seven days a week. For more information, do visit their Website, which also has details of all the other pubs owned by Geronimo Inns.