Here's an enterprising idea. Sally and Tony Cole decided it made no sense at all for the ten companies on a business park in Reading to each have its own café, and acquired the only empty unit, fortuitously in a waterfront setting surrounded by a 180 acre green and pleasant landscape, before converting it into a 65 seat restaurant/brasserie. With minimalist style décor, two chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants and a lot of chutzpah they were off.

Whilst there is significant customer support from the Business Park, the influx in the evenings brings a lively blend of light and shade, given trouble-free parking and easy access off the M4. With dishes like traditional Thai fish cakes with sweet chilli sauce, and ox cheek spring roll with cauliflower puree and chilli jam, the evening is off to a good start. Main courses pursue a happy path of inventiveness tinged with tradition and the red curry of seafood, an aromatic cream curry with scallops, salmon, pollock and prawns. For an indulgent concession to modern food do take a tilt at the Wagyu beef burger.

A range of sweet temptations lies in wait to trap the weak and enthusiastic, with a classic lemon tart, sticky toffee pudding with pecan toffee sauce and Chantilly cream and a local cheese board that seems to have made a point of selecting the most outstanding of its kind, all stating the case for a menu that has not just had some puddings added on.