Lussmanns - Bishop's Stortford

Lussmanns, and its siblings in Hertford and St Albans, are restaurants with a difference, in that they really do try to reflect the seasons, as well as source local ingredients. There is a kind of transparency of intent about Andrei Lussmann and Tim Hope, whose enterprise creates confidence and trust, feelings which are clearly shared by their customers and staff.

The fish is taken from sustainable stocks using environmentally friendly methods; meat is supplied by small independent farmers for whom rearing animals for table is a matter of humanity, and they use only English free range and farm assured chickens.

Lussmanns at Bishop's Stortford is part of an exciting development in this thriving traditional market town, a place that is determined to hold on to its own identity and is made even more rural by its wealth of parks and open spaces. Handy for the Jackson Square car cark and local shops it can hold 140 people, with a mezzanine floor overlooking the river that makes a splendid setting for private parties of up to 45. A ground floor river terrace presents opportunities for open air relaxation with food and drink to hand. The lounge area has a number of sofas, ideal for a drink before or after a meal. Guests are also encouraged to simply come in a have a drink without dining in the restaurant.

The main menu kicks off with eight starters, bringing such delights as Moray Firth smoked mackerel and cornichon pate, with granary toast or Highland oatcakes. The Western Isle grilled squid with fresh chilli and rocket brings a breath of freshness to the table, or there's Lussmanns free range speck and wild rocket, roasted peppers, buffalo mozzarella, artichoke, free range salami and basil pesto. A number of dishes carry the restaurant name, a nice conceit which generally means they are popular too.

Western Isles crab spaghetti is served with fresh chilli and parsley, and the classic lasagne includes organic Sussex beef and tomato sauce. The fish and grill section reinforces the notion that this is one of those menus where you would like to order everything, which used to be the prerequisite of brasseries but is now, happily, spreading more widely.

Line caught Cornish pollock with creamed leeks and a brown shrimp and tomato butter leaves no room for doubt as to its authenticity, and the Woburn pork belly is beautifully sautéed in marsala before being served with garlic mash and crackling. Their Swiss and classic burgers are made at the restaurant with Woburn streaky bacon and brie, and cooked to your liking.

Desserts of warm chocolate and walnut brownie with vanilla bean ice cream, seasonal fruit pannacotta and sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce add a glossy touch to the finale. A wine list with more than a whiff of Corney and Barrow about it is totally supportive.

The number of restaurants keen to acknowledge their suppliers, a welcome trend, is on the increase and Lussmanns is no exception. This is done through their Website, and could be a company such as Chegworth Valley that provides the restaurant with award winning organic juice straight from their farm in Kent. Blessed now with 44 Great Taste Awards, Best British Speciality Food 2006 and World's Most Delicious Ice Cream in the Sunday Times Style Magazine, May 2007 it is not difficult to see why, with suppliers like these, the good folk of Bishop's Stortford, and well beyond, can't get enough of Lussmanns.

Please note that they do not accept bookings by e-mail, so only use it for questions or enquiries.