Lussmanns - Hertford

Lussmanns, and its sibling in St Albans, are restaurants with a difference, in that they really do try to reflect the seasons, as well as source local ingredients. The point I make is that there are plenty of people who lay claim to this fashionable aim, but on closer examination fall further short than they might wish the customer to know. To be fair we all know the problems of supply and demand, but this does not excuse exaggerating the truth.

No chance of that here! There is a kind of transparency of intent about Andrei Lussmann and Tim Hope, whose enterprise this is, that creates confidence and trust, feelings which are clearly shared by their customers and staff. The fish is landed from sustainable stocks using environmentally friendly methods; meat is supplied by small independent farmers for whom rearing animals for table is a matter of humanity, and they use only English free range and farm assured chickens.

The Hertford Lussmanns is located in the town centre, within walking distance of the Castle grounds and gardens. Its Egyptian style frontage should not be taken as an indication of the cuisine, but is one of only two built in the 1830s. It was once the meeting place of the secret society of the knights' templar of Aquarius.

The main menu is available generally during opening hours and could include Brixworth pate from Northamptonshire, smoked mackerel and cornichon pate with granary soldiers or Highland oatcakes, and for 2 people Lussmanns Ardenne organic smoked ham and wild rocket, roasted peppers, buffalo mozzarella, artichoke, Toscano salami, roasted tomatoes, basil pesto, olives and tzaziki. Now that sounds totally irresistible to me.

However, it should not leave the lusty diner incapacitated and ready to consider the relative merits of a plate of organic Shetland Isles salmon, a Lussman's fishcake, or free range English chicken schnitzel with garlic and chilli spaghetti. A classic burger is served with frites, some Woburn streaky, avocado and brie.

Amongst the specials expect to find Brittany sardines on toast, Buckinghamshire beef stroganoff, and rhubarb and vanilla fool.

Desserts maintain the pace of excellence with a West Country organic chocolate cheesecake with rum and raisin ice cream. Minghella's ice creams made with 100% natural milk from contented - one presumes - Jersey cows, are in a class of their own, and their sorbets are equally full of flavour.

Corney and Berrow, always a good name to have around, have a hand in the wine list which is modest in number, with six by the glass but punchy in selection and comfortably priced. How much better decent wine tastes if you know you have not been ripped off! Some rather select soft drinks include Luscombe elderflower bubbly, there is quality beer from England, France and the Czech Republic, and few bottled waters come better than Hildon, from beneath the chalk hills of Hampshire.

This is an admirable restaurant where quality and integrity are the virtues around which their success revolves. Learn more about them from their Website that mirrors their exuberance and pleasure in what they are doing.