Lux

The Kelvinside Railway Station was designed to be a suitably elegant place for the richer members of the community to come and go on that democratic leveller, the railway network. It has now taken on a new lease of life as the venue for quality eating and claims to be one of the "top 100 most fashionable restaurants in the UK". Since that claim is virtually unproveable it should not be taken too seriously, but there is no doubt that Lux is all about elegance and top class food. Of such is the kingdom . . . . . Freshly made canapés are served with the anticipatory drinks before a meal which could be drawn from cream of langoustine bisque with smoked olive oil, warm crostini of spiced red onion and pear with crumbled goats cheese, or a grilled baby black pudding on smokie bacon potato scone with Isle of Arran mustard butter.

Main courses span the globe with Mexican crumbed chicken with tomato and avocado salsa, tournedos of Scottish beef on pickled walnut mash with Merlot flavoured jus, topped with Swiss cheese, or fillet of red snapper brushed with Thai paste on stir fried vegetables and toasted sesame seed dressing. And there is always the lure of what else the Scottish waters might have yielded via the fish market, to the tender attentions of Chef Stephen Johnson.

It is reassuring to see my lifelong views on Camp coffee essence proved right as it provides the kick in the tail for the cheesecake with peach and Grand Marnier sauce, almost as reassuring as noting that the cheeseboard is supplied from the stocks of Ian Mellis. Nor should the sugar-glazed bread and butter pudding laced with Melange raisins and vanilla pod sauce be overlooked. House wine is at £15, an indicator of a list that takes no prisoners and is a joy to ponder over.