Ma is a Chinese word for horse and with a century old clay horse standing majestically in the middle of the room, made during the Han dynasty in China, you don't have to look too far to see how the restaurant got its name. Located at the rear of Hotel Adlon Kempinski, Tim Raue's new venture at this upmarket spot demonstrates that he has come a long way since his days at Restaurant 44 in Swissôtel Berlin, where he honed his culinary skills.

The Asian inspired interior of slate, bronze, jade and cashmere fabrics add character to the place; while the cosy brown and yellow sofas may help you linger a little longer. Look outside and you might notice an abundance of creepers descending down the glass windows, lending an earthy and bright feel.

Raue's passion for freshness and harmony of flavours is reflected in his food. He manages to achieve that delicate balance by combining the natural sweetness of fruit with a bitter note of fresh herbs and plants in meat, fish and vegetables dishes. To help guests understand how the tender Kobe-style beef comes only with a fork and spoon watch the chefs in the open plan kitchen slice the well-marbled meat, which is then slightly blanched and immersed in soy broth poured from a teapot.

There's foie gras with shiso herbs, red grapes and Sichuan pepper and soft shell crab with leeks and ginger amongst starters. Watch taste and textures combine in main courses of fish maw and scallops with green paprika and coriander; lobster with cinnamon blossom pink lady and apple jelly, and ox tongue with mustard, pear, kohlrabi and cumin. Pigeon is cooked Cantonese style with jus from dried mushrooms and green beans.

Sweet treats include raspberry tapioca with milk ice and tarragon foam and Mallorquin peach with passion fruit, basil and raspberry ice cream. The cordial service by Anne-Marie Raue and her team sustain the warmth and friendliness of this place, which could appeal to just about anyone - whether it is a guest at Hotel Adlon Kempinski, a tourist or just about any Berliner.