Madsen

After less than six months of opening at 20 Old Brompton Road, South Kensington SW7, the Scandinavian restaurant, Madsen has been awarded its first AA rosette.  At a time when new fashions in eating are well up the agenda a restaurant which focuses on the Nordic Diet is going to attract attention. Some will know that the diet is inspired by the Scandinavian tradition of using wholesome, raw and unprocessed ingredients to produce the finished dish. Eating less, whatever its instant appeal which is often undone by the increased cost of quality food, is not seen necessarily as a cheaper option. However, a Scandinavian Smörgåsboard at lunchtime and weekends at £25 per person for 13 dishes with a selection of freshly baked rye bread, sourdough and crisp bread is seen as an attractive come-on, closely followed by Swedish Tuesdays and Danish Wednesdays when traditional dishes are offered as additional choices.

Even the names are attractive with skagen, a fish soup with white wine, carrots, leeks and fresh market fish, three kinds of marinated herring with homemade curry salad, Swedish style hash with potatoes, meat and onion topped with a fried egg and served with house pickled beetroot, followed by lemon baked rhubarb in its own syrup accompanied by elderflower sorbet.

A very credible wine list is admirably suited to the menus, with a decorous selection by the 125ml glass.