Malabar

Malabar, that sturdy supplier of quality Indian food to the steadily increasing glitterati of Notting Hill for the last twenty-one years is celebrating, and rightly so. The cool, contemporary interior that has never been out of touch with current trends has an appeal all its own, with an air of intimacy, particularly downstairs, and the sweet intrigue of the orient. Much of their success is due to actually achieving the standards and aims of so many who move in this particular field of cuisine, but sadly do not always fully succeed.

For instance artificial colouring is never added to the food at Malabar which arrives on the traditional metal thalis used in India. Tradition has never stood in the way of innovation at Malabar and whilst very recognisable dishes like murg tandoori and king prawns dansak are as popular as ever there are, for the discerning, flourishes of individual culinary genius that give fresh challenges to the tastebuds.

Favourites from amongst the range of starters include prawn philouries, fried prawn-cakes flavoured with green chillies, coriander, carrots and garlic, and devilled kaleeja, charcoal grilled chicken livers marinated in yoghurt, mustard oil and paprika. Main courses employ the customary range of poultry, lamb and seafood, the latter requiring a deft touch with the spices to retain the original and delightful flavours of fresh seafood.

The harra murg is chicken prepared with fresh lime and green chillies, coriander and green tomatoes, a delightful dish that has zest without being offensively so, and there is a delightful duck curry, marinated in vinegar and cooked with cumin and tomato. The lamb dishes, where many think Indian cooking really comes into its own, offers the kali gosht, diced lamb cooked with black cardamom, cinnamon and fresh ginger, a gutsy dish with a wonderful blend of flavours.

The Malabar prawns masala features barbecued king prawns served in a special Malabar sauce. For those who like their lentil dal, and many seem to, there is the famous five lentil dal, with channa, mung masoor, toor and urid lentils, combined with red chillies. The rice and breads are well above the average and the peshawari is outstanding for those who like this very distinctive naan bread.

Happily there is a growing realisation that Indian cuisine and good wine are not the strangers that many seem to suppose. At Malabar they have known this all along but there is little point in stocking decent wine if the great majority want to stick with the beers and lagers, many of them excellent in their own right. Malabar has a worthy list, ranging from light Lebanese whites to a smooth and supple rioja, well able to hold its own with a robust karahi gosht.