Malabar, that sturdy supplier of quality Indian food to the steadily increasing glitterati of Notting Hill for over 25 years is celebrating, and rightly so. The cool, contemporary interior that has never been out of touch with current trends has an appeal all its own, with an air of intimacy, particularly downstairs, and the sweet intrigue of the orient.

Tradition has never stood in the way of innovation at Malabar and whilst very recognisable dishes like shashlik and tandoori monkfish are as popular as ever there are, for the discerning, flourishes of individual culinary genius that give fresh challenges to the tastebuds. The lamb dishes, where many think Indian cooking really comes into its own, offers the karahi gosht, diced lamb cooked with fresh curry leaves and star anise, a gutsy dish with a wonderful blend of flavours.

Happily there is a growing realisation that Indian cuisine and good wine are not the strangers that many seem to suppose. Malabar has a worthy list, ranging from Riesling to a smooth and supple Shiraz, well able to hold its own with a robust karahi gosht.