The Malmaison group of hotels has established throughout Britain a collection of centres of excellence where nothing but the best will do. As a concept alone this is exciting, but the reality is brilliant, so that at last there is a hotel group where uniformity of standards is of the same high calibre.

Malmaison Liverpool is located in the trendy Princes Dock area and follows a New York Gothic inspired theme with an impressive Manhattan type building - something that relates well to the exciting architecture that results from a mingling of modern with more traditional in this European City of Culture.

The rooms are all that one would expect from a hotel that has genuine regard for its guests and is concerned with every aspect of their wellbeing. In the hometown of the Beatles expect to find close attention paid to the musical background in your room, whilst all the customary luxuries that associate with Malmaison are there to hand, the naughty nibbles, the serious wine, drench showers and that oh so completely embracing bed.

Amidst elegant surroundings, with spotless gleaming glassware and shining cutlery, an essentially brasserie menu is offered. At the brasserie lovers of seafood will be delighted to note at once that their particular needs are well heeded, starting with a delightful pan-fried mackerel or new season British asparagus, poached duck egg and shaved Parmesan.

Other starters that seldom fail to please include Cumbrian white chicken roulade with sautéed red kale and lardons with pea puree, and spinach and baked ricotta filo.

Head Chef Adam Townsley and his team brings to the table  inspired choices for the main course such as Brixham crab ravioli with lemon hollandaise and char-grilled asparagus,  or the pan-fried duck breast with petit pois 'la mode francoise' for those seeking by this time a slightly more carnivorous approach. Salads, sausages and vegetarian dishes like duck egg cocotte are other lovely creations. Which leads us neatly to the - wait for it - Mal burger, a 250 gram burger made from ground beef tucked into a floured bap to join bacon and gruyere, served with homemade relish and some fries.

Over the years the number of outriders surrounding a good honest steak has grown to unacceptable dimensions. At Malmaison the thought and care is centred on the dry-aged on the bone rump and that's it - except for the chips. If you want all the rest go for the side dishes such as cumin carrots, buttered Savoy cabbage and tomato and onion salad.

Heading the puddings is the House crème brûlée, a triumph of timing and co-ordination, supported by other choices amongst which expect to find fondant au chocolate, chilled rice pudding or a splendid gateau a la crème fraîche. Their homemade ice creams and sorbets are dreamy.

The wine list is a symphony of its kind, clearly compiled by an enthusiast who knows his wines well enough not to disappear into a world of hyperbole when describing them.

Their Website is a wealth of information that will, I predict, only serve to increase your resolve to make Malmaison your next stop in Liverpool. It is worth noting that you can also make reservations Online on their Website.