Those familiar with Victoria Barracks, Portsmouth may agree that there is little else to commend it, apart from the fact that it had vague pretensions to 'architecture'. So it is with joy that one reads of the Duke of York's Barracks, off the King's Road, and their conversion into a shopping precinct including an Italian restaurant.

Manicomio may be Italian in name, but the reality is that it has strayed across the mountains a bit and a Gallic incursion of culinary influence has occurred, though not with any loss of appeal. This demonstrates itself in a variety of ways, most of them relatively small and in terms of an enjoyable eating experience it probably matters not one jot. Dishes here might include grilled quail and chicken liver spiedino and roasted fillet of Angus beef with wild mushrooms and spinach.

In overall terms there is a warm welcome and the team behind Manicomio are providing Italian-style food that is comfortable and geared well to those in the middle of a great retail experience who want somewhere to eat that smacks of something a little different.