Manners Restaurant

The majority of people would accept that part of the pleasure of eating out has to be the unhurried atmosphere. Some places are very good at it; others treat you as though you were a commodity on a production line. At Waterford Lodge, formerly part of the Highcliffe Castle estate, they excel at many things, but the calm and relaxed approach to, say, dinner, overlooking the attractive garden is something to remember.

Head Chef Steve Lavender produces a classic menu with an inspiring specials choice, and more than a nod at the seasons. Earl Grey Tea smoked chicken served with a feuilette of leek and mushroom ragout, could be accompanied by a fillet steak topped with a red pesto crust on a celeriac rosti, with roasted shallots, saffron potato and a port wine glaze. Complete the evening with a Belgian chocolate marquise terrine with mocha sauce and pistachios.