Marco

Marco Pierre White and Roman Abranovich have joined forces to replace what was formerly a fish and chip outlet at the entrance to the Chelsea FC ground with a smooth, masculine-chic restaurant which I suspect will not be exactly besieged by its former clients, for whom the nearest available thing to fish and chips could be sea scallops à la Croque, or delicious mussel soup Billy By if you're lucky.

The à la carte menu yields starters of aspic of oysters with watercress en gelée de champagne, or terrine de foie with green peppercorns in another form of gelée, this time Sauternes.

By this time you will have begun to get the message, and of course it makes commercial sense. Football has moved across the market. A grilled Dover sole at £25 reinforces this fact, and even slow roasted Gloucester Old Spot pork belly is well above average. But then this is cooking at its best, with table dressing, service and surroundings of the same calibre, and whether you are a non-football customer or not there is always a niche for the top dog.

It will probably go without saying that the wine list presents a wonderful journey through some of the brighter domaines in the galaxy. There are of course facilities for private hire, and a match day menu that offers a three course meal for £45. When you consider the price of a ticket that has to be good value.