Marco Pierre White and Roman Abramovich have joined forces to replace what was formerly a fish and chip outlet at the entrance to the Chelsea FC ground with a smooth, masculine-chic restaurant, which may not be exactly besieged by its former clients.

A quick look at the à la carte will reveal starters of fresh Cornish crab with sauce mayonnaise, or terrine de foie gras and en gelée de Sauternes. By this time you will have begun to get the message, and of course it makes commercial sense. Football has moved across the market. A grilled tuna steak reinforces this fact, and even the belly pork with Marco Polo glaze. But then this is cooking at its best, with table dressing, service and surroundings of the same calibre, and whether you are a non-football customer or not there is always a niche for the top dog.

It will probably go without saying that the wine list presents a wonderful journey through some of the brighter domaines in the galaxy. There are of course facilities for private hire, and match day and set menus.