Marco Polo Restaurant & Bar

One of the most respected restaurant names in Newcastle is Marco Polo, acquired by new owners towards the end of 2005, and now once again a brand leader for Italian cuisine in this thriving and vibrant part of the UK economy. The changes generally seem to be welcomed by the Geordie world, who for many years have regarded Marco Polo as a small but highly robust piece of Italy in their midst.

Gone is what one refreshingly candid fan described as the 'spit and sawdust' feel, to be replaced by that much abused phrase, an air of sophistication, with ample use made of strong colours, notably red, dark wood, and trendy lighting The overall effect is certainly more of the times in which we live, and the food is as good as ever, so who's going to be fussy about the décor?

Perhaps one of the charms about Italian cooking is its predictability. Not that everything is always the same, but there is a delightful consistency that is only broken by something completely different. The famed antipasti, a selection of Italian meats, cheese and vegetables is a sort of tone setter that reassures, and fires up the tastebuds. There can be few more Italian dishes than a Caesar salad, though sad to see anchovies are not included. Quite essential in my view, but then I felt the same about Bombay duck before it disappeared from the menus of most self respecting Indian restaurants.

Italian cuisine lends itself well to seafood, particularly shellfish, provided they still have that essential sweetness that goes with freshness, so it is nice to note king prawns with fresh tomato, brandy, basil and cream amongst the pasta, as well as the Umbrian sausage with tomato, rosemary and beans.

Gone are the days when it was pizza only, but no Italian menu would be complete without them, and the range of pizzas is admirable, with extra toppings  available for a very reasonable consideration. Try the marinara with mussels, clams, king prawns, cod, squid, lemon and parsley. Those seeking balls of fire will love the spicy pepperoni, tomato and mozzarella, whilst traditionalists will take delight in Napoli, tomato and mozzarella with queen olives, black anchovies and fresh basil. For the diet conscious any pasta can be specially served in olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs.

Main dishes feature chargrilled leg of lamb, swordfish, crisp belly pork, chicken, beef, whole roast Dover sole, and sea bass. The char grilled rib of beef, rosemary roast potatoes, porcini butter and watercress has to be one of the best dishes, with the slow cooked belly pork, with sea salt and rosemary crackling, braised potatoes and black pudding with cider gravy a close second for many. Also attractive are the side orders which apart from the standard fare offer green beans with garlic and pine nuts as a single order.

House wine at under £12 is a very fair deal, with red and white by the glass, before looking at the very Italian list, almost all under £20. Gone are the days when Happy Hour was a Fridays-only piece of festivity, now it's Monday to Wednesday 5-7pm at Marco Polo, with pizza or pasta, and a 3 course business lunch from 12-3pm for a jaw-dropping £5.95.

For up to the minute details of other menus, events and how to join Club Marco free, do click on their Website.