Mariners at Il Punto

Until comparatively recent times the word gunboat had colonial connotations that are fast fading into the dark shadows of Victorian imperialism. So with re-usage all the rage it may not come as a total surprise to find a superb relic of the maritime past, an imaginative and extremely well-presented floating survival, on the ancient waterfront of the historic port of Ipswich.

Many of the original features of this fine and much travelled vessel, launched in 1899 in Belgium, are retained and so skilfully has the work been done that it is not always easy to disregard the feeling that you might emerge from the absorption of your meal, only to find yourself rocking gently off Dogger Bank or the German Bight.

Everything is immaculate and shipshape, the brasswork gleams, the woodwork reflects the subtle lights from the boat-studded harbour scene outside and the cries of the seabirds remove any possible lingering doubts of authenticity.

This seamanlike precision translates very easily it seems into the all-important area of the galley where French brasserie food, which by no means ignores fish, is prepared with consistent care, taking full advantage of the readily available local excellence evident in all three venues of this lively and well-respected East Anglian group.

The menu is as traditional as the ship's ropework and could include starters of rabbit saddle stuffed with duck foie gras and toasted brioche, a terrine of courgettes, smoked salmon and goat cheese with a red pepper coulis or fresh crab meat layered with avocado mousse and tomato jelly.

A breath from the past is invoked by the chicken liver parfait flavoured with port, onion chutney and toasted brown bread. To follow, perhaps the roasted sea bass fillet with rosemary and beurre blanc sauce will do very well.

The sea air may well have induced an even keener appetite than usual, in which case consider yielding to the firepower of a prime Aberdeen Angus fillet with port and star aniseed sauce. And talking of planks a gang-plank-walking selection of puddings offers good brasserie style such as cappuccino cheesecake with coffee coulis or the almond and honey pannacotta with red fruit jelly and white chocolate mousse. However, cheese-eaters of any nationality may find even armed resistance fails in the presence of an overwhelming force of well-kept French cheeses.

An attractive selection of house wines come by the glass, carafe or bottle and the mainly French list can hardly fail to satisfy the needs of the most demanding raider. Tableware and service are in keeping with the best traditions of the wardroom mess, bringing the final touches to a voyage of nostalgic excellence. They do lunches of breathtaking value and quality and on the upper deck the wine bar offers opportunities for relaxation and light snacks.

Extremely full details on Il Punto, including a pictorial tour and menus, are available on their Website.