Marquess of Exeter, The

This delightful 16th century former coaching inn in the historic village of Lyddington, itself just outside Uppingham with its ancient market place and highly respected public school, has recently taken on a renewed lease of life, with new owners and a major refurbishment.

Beautifully thatched, it occupies a prominent position in the main street of Lyddington, a place where in the middle ages Bishops of Lincoln were wont to come for rest and contemplation. Sections of their Bede House stand close to the church, where concerts are regularly held, and the stone tapestry of the rich Weldon stone houses combines with the surrounding countryside to make one of the most attractive rural landscapes in the small county of Rutland.

The Marquess has 16 ensuite bedrooms, and a function room, the Lord Burghley suite, where up to 100 guests can be entertained. Recognising that an attractive restaurant with a menu that embraces wide appeal is an essential part of such a facility, the Rutland Pub Co fields a menu that has a touch of the brasserie combined with modern European cuisine to create something for everyone.

Antipasto of smoked salmon, prawns, smoked mackerel, smoked halibut, soused herrings, pastrami, York ham, half a Cromer crab (£3 supp), scallops, asparagus, baby squid and goat's cheese, to name but a few, can be ordered in choices of 5, 8 or 11 items.

Small plates are the Marquess's equivalent of starters, except that 'small plates' has a ring of elegance to it. Amongst them expect to find Oriental style crispy beef salad, duck confit leg with sweet red cabbage and orange, hot chicken and smoked bacon marinated vegetable salad or a robust soup of the day served with organic bread.

Amongst an impressive range of main courses that has a distinct leaning towards the sea, there is Marquess home made fish and chips 'with a difference'. Much as I would like to be able to tell you more I think you should have that pleasure. Roast breast of guinea fowl is for the discerning diner, whilst homemade fishcakes arrive at table on a bed of wilted spinach with fresh Hollandaise and a poached egg.

Steaks at the Marquess are good value, particularly the traditional cut fillet steak, hung for 21 days, with béarnaise or peppercorn sauce from which to choose, and all steaks are served with fat fries, mushrooms, tomatoes and onion rings. Those looking for something a little different might consider the cayenne pepper fried swordfish loin on a niçoise salad has much to commend it, or Irish monkfish with black pepper and lemon, tomatoes and herb gnocchi.

A good range of desserts is always available, and with the home of Stilton close by in Leicestershire expect to find some well-kept examples of that wonderful British delicacy at the ready.

At first sight the wine list could be taken for just another list - until you look more closely and begin to read the annotations: the realisation quickly dawns that this is a list selected by somebody who knows. Congratulations to Matt Francis, supplier of wines, from nearby Leicester. Nine wines come by the glass or bottle and both the red and white Premium House wines are South Africans of distinction.

For larger functions they can cater for up to one hundred guests and the hotel is licensed for civil weddings. The inn has sixteen elegantly decorated and furnished en suite rooms, ranging from singles to a four poster room, each named after local historical families.