Marryat Restaurant at Chewton Glen

Chewton Glen stands between the New Forest's trees and the waters of the English Channel. Sybarites from across the world now beat a path through its classical portico to enjoy a place that is home to those who subscribe to civilised values. The Hotel is living proof that the creation of a luxury hotel is as much a matter of taste as it is of investment.

The house almost certainly dates from the early 18th century and is enclosed within delightful grounds of well over 100 acres. Legend carries evidence that smugglers would pass through the grounds from the sea by night before melting into the countryside beyond. Captain Frederick Marryat, the Victorian novelist, was a regular visitor to the house in the mid-19th century and must have drawn upon its magic.

In 1966 the Skan family bought the property and ten years later won the Egon Ronay Gold Plate Award for Hotel of the Year. That standard has never faltered and today the Hotel enjoys a pre-eminence all its own. Described by Gourmet magazine as "the best country house hotel in the world" Chewton Glen is listed by Egon Ronay in his 2005 Top 25 UK Restaurants, the list of awards and accolades is world-wide.

Little surprise then that Chewton Glen has it all - the restaurant, world-class leisure activities and spa, luxurious accommodation that gives a new meaning to the words, and up to date conference facilties. In this assessment we take a measured view of the restaurant.

The Marryat Room and Garden Restaurant lays claim to a modern European cuisine, which is perfectly true, but perhaps does insufficient justice to the breadth of interpretation within that definition. In the evenings there are two menus on offer, a five course gourmand and the three course table d'hote.

The Menu Gourmand is a selection of the Chef's signature dishes and starts with an appetiser before going on to seared escalope of duck foie gras, followed by roast Scottish scallops. Scotland scores again with a fillet of beef, neatly complimented by a citrus fruit trifle with lime syrup, leading to a hot Valrhona chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream. Each course carries a carefully chosen partner from the cellar selected by Sommelier, Alan Holmes.

On the table d'hote menu expect to find such local delicacies as lobster fresh from Christchuch Bay, a terrine of local game, or Oscietra caviar. The theme continues with a canon of Hampshire lamb, Quantock duck, or loin of veal with roast sweetbreads. A banana and coconut tart with rum and raisin ice cream carries special appeal, and there is a good range of sorbets and farmhouse cheeses. Head Chef Luke Matthews is of local origin, with training that includes international experience and ten years as Senior Sous Chef with Pierre Chevillard.