Square mile watering holes tend to be of a certain type, but Mary Janes, in the Minories presents a new face to the City, and reinvents the philosophy of the extended lunch followed by a little lie-down before the evening activities kick off.

It's probably fair to say that most decors known to man exists within its elegant doors, including glass chandeliers, Jacobean oak panelling, plenty of ornamental glass, and rich velvet curtains. This is not a place to frequent if subject to migraines or a tendency to Nelson's ear - light and sound are everything.

Particularly welcome are the city slickers who from 5 to 7 pm can enjoy the extensive range of cocktails and the Champagne Club during a couple of hours that just get happier as time wears on. Later it may be time to savour the range of tequila brands, topped out with the premium Frida Kahlo.

But it's not all drink. An all-day menu is composed of informal dishes that do not stand on ceremony as you make your own burgers, salads and ice cream sundaes. There is the increasingly popular presentation of small plates, and sharing is the name of the game. Main courses and hot and cold sandwiches endlessly ring the choices, and the evening brings aromatic duck spring rolls, real scampi tails and large platters to pass around are the vogue.