Masa Restaurant Wine Bar

The name of the game these days seems to be diversification. Nowhere is this better demonstrated than in Derby where in Brook Street an old Wesleyan Chapel has been taken into care by an inspiring couple, Didar and Paula Dalkic.

The handsome, dignified building, once a home to fire and brimstone sermons dispensed from the awesome heights of a massive pulpit-cum-podium, has an interior that is in complete contrast to its rather austere outside, and if those who worshipped here over the centuries kept the outside simple they certainly made sure that God was worshipped against a background of splendid style within.

The adaptation has been done with skill and understanding, muted contrasting colours that bring out the best in the fittings, making Masa a restaurant with a real difference. The more tiresome features of so many churches, like draughts, have been ironed out.

Downstairs a wine bar has been established, creating an ideal rendezvous and offering a light lunch daily. A typical menu could be a black pudding and poached egg salad with mustard dressing, spinach, goats' cheese and parma ham pasta, or a generous open sandwich of roast suckling pig, apple and plum compote.

Needless to say the wine list extends considerably beyond the communion variety that is served in churches of other faiths, including some very commendable house wines available by the bottle or glass. Whilst prices in general hover round the £20 average there are opportunities for something special on the right occasion.

The Gallery Restaurant speaks for itself and some very clever juggling has gone on here, designed to adapt and retain. Within the comfort of your box pew contemplate around seven starters that could include a salad of seared tuna, roasted foie gras with sweet and sour lettuce soup, pearl onions and radishes, or a scallop ceviche with smoked salmon, cucumber and dill vinaigrette.

In the best spirit of such rousing tunes as 'We plough the fields and scatter', main courses range from roasted field mushroom with a herb crust and some mozzarella, calves' liver encrusted with hazel nuts and served with sweet and sour baby spinach, or oven roasted halibut with a shellfish and lentil stew and African curry emulsion.

A comforting note on the menu indicates a 15 minute gap for your pudding to materialise, with a choice from amongst 6 or so, that can include a brioche summer pudding with lime crème fraiche, or a white chocolate and lime mousse served with a cocktail named Cloudy Sky. Is this another name for moody blues?

It should come as no surprise to find that Masa is open on Sundays, when lunch is taken every bit as seriously as previous preoccupations on the Sabbath within its sturdy walls,

Between 12 and 9pm. £17 will buy a highly credible meal that you can enjoy whilst trying not to think which of the Commandments dealt with the subject of gluttony. Although the traditional roast beef is top of the menu, there are other choices including poultry and fish dishes, around 3 or so desserts, and a selection of cheese which seems to be so very Sunday lunch. Just taste the homemade bread.

Their excellent Website is well worth exploring, and carries the news that Masa has been awarded two AA Rosettes, (2007) the only Derby city centre restaurant to achieve national accolades.