Masala Zone - Soho

Masala Zone is a relative newcomer to the multi coloured scene of Indian cooking. Owned by Masala World, who also own Amaya, Veeraswamy and Chutney Mary, three of London's top Indian restaurants, they aim to bring informal and real Indian food to London at sensible prices, and not before time.

They serve tasty Indian street snacks, together with more conventional offerings. The atmosphere is terrific, very laidback and authentic. They also do vegetarian food, to which the Indian approach is always such a success thanks to its historic foundation in the sub-continent, which is prepared in a separate kitchen manned by Brahmins - a nice touch.

The décor is striking enough before you get anywhere near the food. Genuine tribal art from West India helps to blot out recent recollection of London traffic, tube trains and perhaps one of those days when there's just enough rain to find the weak spots. Welcome to another world where the genuine taste of India helps to subtly fortify you for return to the one you've just left.

Starters of spiced mash cake with yoghurt and chutney (aloo tikki chaat), vie with chana dabalroti, a tangy chickpea curry, lotus root with hunks of toasted bread, a famous sindhi dish.

Indian street food is world famous and you are most likely in for some exceedingly pleasant surprises as you scan the menu. Perhaps the adage "you are what you eat" will flit through your mind as you note the sparing use of oil, the fresh ingredients and the thalis that offer a balanced combination of nutrition, flavours, textures and colours. A gujarati thali on its stainless steel platter will offer gujarati vegetarian canapés, vegetables, dals, chapattis, rice, salads and pickles. Thalis specially designed for diabetics are available, another thoughtful gesture.

The grand thali, the equivalent of a two course meal, is for the very hungry, and the regular version caters well for the less-challenged. Look also for curry and rice plates that embrace some of the great Indian classics, such as rogan josh, prawn malai, and butter chicken, as well as Indian grills enabling an eat light approach, with chicken tikka, lamb seekh kebab, and prawns.

Indian desserts are notable for their seductive powers with homemade ice cream (kulfi), sweetened strained yoghurt with saffron fresh fruit, falooda (a fun Indian sundae) and various sorbets and ice creams.

Drinks include several versions of lassi, the frothy yoghurt whip, a wide range of juices, Indian squash, and wine list chosen with Indian food in mind, starting at £12.65 a bottle with nothing more than £18.45. Indian and European beers are also available, but cooking this good demands, shall we say, something a touch more sophisticated. No reservations required. Find out more about this user friendly small group on their Website.