Gordon Ramsay's latest foray into the restaurant world was never going to be run of the mill, and the Maze restaurant at the Marriott Hotel in Grosvenor Square certainly confirms that forecast. From the drawing board of American architect David Rockwell, he of the Grand Central Station to name but only one other achievement, the 90-seater restaurant is a rich assembly of hand-crafted luxury suitable for the unusual menu that head chef Jason Atherton and his team have dreamed up - not so much unusual in its content but in the way it is structured.

So what's on offer? Slow roast quail with walnut purée and pickled lemons, white bean and Madeira sauce to start and roasted fillet of Gloucestershire beef, with griotte onions, artichokes and bacon and cep purée to follow. For pudding many may find the peanut butter and cherry jam sandwich a new and delightful experience. This is Ramsay doing what he's best at, inspiring a team of his making to produce accurately a menu that bears his stamp and ingenuity.