Maze

Gordon Ramsay's latest foray into the restaurant world was never going to be run of the mill, and Maze certainly confirms that forecast. From the drawing board of American architect David Rockwell, he of the Grand Central Station to name but only one other achievement, the 90-seater restaurant is a rich assembly of hand-crafted luxury suitable for the unusual menu that head chef Jason Atherton and his team - not so much unusual on its content but in the way it is structured.

Central to this process is a daily changing menu of around 30 small dishes, all around a fiver, from which you are expected to pluck not more than eight. The kitchen then work out the best order in which these can be served, and hey presto, we're off. There is nothing to prevent you from ordering a more conventional three-course meal from the same menu, though quantity and pricing will be different.

So what's on offer? Think suckling pig with roasted apple, a chilled glass bowl with layers of caviar, crab mayonnaise, avocado cream, and sweetcorn sorbet, grilled spring lamb with cinnamon sweetbreads, or English beef served with artichoke, foie gras, parsley, snail and aligot de marinette, which is potato mashed with cheese and garlic. For pudding many may find the peanut butter and cherry jam sandwich a new and delightful experience, though the honey and rhubarb Bellini cannot be far behind.

Even though he's nowhere to be seen this is Ramsay doing what he's best at and it says much for his ability to inspire that a team of his making is able to produce so faithfully a menu that bears his stamp and ingenuity. Furthermore prices are not out of the window and it's worth going just to see the genius of David Rockwell in this adjunct of the Marriott Hotel in Grosvenor Square.