Here is a celebration of food as many Brits still think of it, despite the myriad culinary influences that modern times have released upon them. No messing about, straightforward food to gladden your day. Served appropriately enough in a former butcher's shop, you can even go for a bacon butty all on its own and nobody will bat an eyelid. Half and dozen Irish rock oysters with a shallot relish, Jerusalem artichoke soup, grilled ox-heart with celeriac remoulade, Cornish fish stew, braised beef with Stilton dumplings, you get the picture? Certainly not a place for the faint-hearted.

Pudding? Well how about ginger parkin, or bramley apple and blackberry pie, the sort of food that well-meaning, bossy people are all too often telling us we should not be eating. Medcalf's is a place for trenchermen - and women - who enjoy what they eat and probably have as much life expectancy, if not more, than the average punter. If it's less I will gladly make the sacrifice. It's not laughing that gets you.