Meeting House Restaurant

Lancaster has a good historic ring to it, hardly surprising in view of its location and significance as the warring factions of the North fought over its wider acres. Despite the efforts of the improvers quite a lot is left and Meeting House Lane is a case in point.

Sitting on the opposite side of the road to the old Quaker Friend's Meeting House is Meeting House Restaurant, named after the historic lane. After several previous incarnations, it is now a highly attractive and well preserved restaurant under chef/proprietor Adam Ventress, with an emphasis on modern British cuisine. A good deal is said about use of local ingredients these days, but with Adam it is a genuine major concern and his list of local suppliers, combined with his own care and professionalism reads like a litany of wholesome eating. Johnson and Swarbrick's Goosnargh duck and chicken, Mansergh Hall Farm Organics and Port of Lancaster Smokehouse are but some of those who also assist Adam in his mission to bring a taste of some of the region's quality produce to his customers.

When a restaurant requests pre booking for a party of ten or more you can be reasonably sure that this is a sign of personal attention from the kitchen onwards. Like any good neighbourhood restaurant there is a main menu which shows regular changes, not in its entirety, but one or two changes are made every few weeks, to keep things fresh and adjusting to the seasons. Some dishes have remained on the menu throughout the year: amongst the six starters, grilled Bury black pudding with smoked bacon, grain mustard dressed leaves, topped with a poached egg, is a mainstay, and the Salmon main course, baked with a basil and lemon crust and served with creamed leeks and fondant potato has been a popular fixture from day one.

Other starters include, pan fried scallops, which are partnered in a cream sauce with samphire in the summer or leeks for the rest of the year, grilled with breadcrumbs and Lancashire cheese; and crabcake made with fresh crabmeat, none of that old stuff out of a can, served with rocket salad and chilli dressing.

A favourite main course amongst customers, and Adam's personal favourite is roasted Goosnargh duck breast with potato and parsnip mash, a port and bramble jelly sauce and parsnip crisps which has to take a break in late spring and summer while parsnips are out of season. During the warmer months, loin of fellbred lamb with minted pea puree and redcurrant and rosemary sauce is a typical example of the dishes on offer. Some simple classics feature, with pan fried fillet of lemon sole with potted shrimp butter and plum tomato sauce, or asparagus and pea risotto topped with a poached egg. A 6oz Cumbrian fellbred fillet steak is served with curly kale mash, bacon mushrooms and red wine sauce.

It would be an act of rank disloyalty not to have sticky toffee pudding amongst the desserts, almost as bad as ignoring a selection of those superb Lancashire cheeses that emerge from the rich pastures of the Forest of Bowland. Rest assured that both feature well on Adam's menu, along with lemon tart with crème fraiche, and poached rhubarb with vanilla cream, topped with crushed shortbread.

The wine list is modest but clearly selected by somebody who has a pretty clear idea what most customers are looking for on their night out. South America is heavily represented and it's a wise man who looks in that direction in these troubled times. The only wine exceeding £20 is the Moët Brut Imperial, and even that is kindly on the pocket. Service is homely in the nicest possible way, and the number of returning customers is a testament to the warm friendly atmosphere.

Meeting House is well worth leaving the M6 for, in fact it would be well worth leaving quite a lot of things for, but that does not include the lady in your life who should be taken there to be cherished and thoroughly spoiled.

Their Website is regularly updated, and will tell you more, notably their special offers and what can be done by arrangement for parties.