Mercury, Le

French bistros can be fascinating destinations for those making the best use of a tight budget, but Le Mercury is more than just that. It looks romantic for a start, with candle lights, soft music and tables on several levels, and then there’s the real good bistro fare at prices that could bring much cheer during what are described as 'difficult' times.

French food tends to concentrate more on cheese and wine and their variations, and what better way to promote better appreciation of French cooking than over plates of pear, blue cheese and walnut salad and roast breast of Barbary duck on garlic potato mash, Savoy cabbage and red wine jus. The smooth flavour of sautéed spinach and lobster sauce work well with seared fillet of Scottish salmon, while confit celeriac and Granny Smith apple make a surprisingly good match with slow roast honeyed pork belly.

Desserts at Le Mercury do well to break free from the retro note with glazed rhubarb with basil ice cream and mascarpone cheesecake with ginger and strawberry coulis.