Merlin, The

The Merlin is probably the most impressive building in the area, inside the décor has been varied in each room to create an interest and individuality that is both stylish and welcoming; it also has a ten bedroom hotel upstairs. It is one of those pubs that have surfaced on the mainstream of casual eating in the UK in the last ten years and are taking an increasing share of the market, evidenced by their growth in numbers and the popularity of what they have to offer. If this results in a 'type' there is certainly no harm in that.

Contemporary pubs such as these usually share a number of characteristics. An important feature is space, preferably a restaurant where you are comfortable, not over-awed, and not sharing elbow space with the next table, however sociable they may be. Good, too, to have an external tiered terrace with upper patio and lawns, providing 100 seats as an optional al fresco eating out space, and by no means least a roomy and well-stocked bar where you can actually get served without undue delay. After all, drinking should be taken seriously.

If a pub offers all of these, and is in a good location, there is little reason in today's economic climate why it should not flourish. The Merlin provides ample evidence that this is true. Looking out over the Cheshire Plain, between Wilmslow and Alderley Edge, the pub has an illustrious history dating from when it was built as a private house for Sir Thomas de Trafford in the 1880s.

But of course there are other factors, not least of which is the food and drink. The term 'gastropub' covers a multitude of blessings, and it is possible to see influences of brasserie, bistro, restaurant and even café at work within the great gastro umbrella. So expect to find no one single cuisine, but a blend designed to provide something for everybody, no matter what their treat may be.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, Spanish tapas of prosciutto, Manchego, sardines and tortilla, a baked Camembert with rustic bread and onion marmalade, Greek mezze of taramasalata with humus, tzatziki, feta and flatbread, or a pizzette with garlic, rocket and Parmesan.

Amongst the starters, touchingly referred to as 'little dishes', there is freshly made soup, smoked haddock with poached egg, crab cakes with tomato, chilli and coriander salsa, seared tuna carpaccio, or cider braised onion tart. Look, too, for Black Pearl scallops when the market is right. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer chicken with chorizo skewers, watercress and minted cucumber raitha, for the seafood fiends some seared salmon Caesar with marinated anchovies and parmesan or buffalo mozzarella with warm roast vine tomatoes and rocket.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic Margherita of tomato, mozzarella and basil, or the challenging diavolo spiced chicken with peppadew peppers, chilli and Tabasco. For those who like to build their own pizzas you can, for a modest sum, add to the basic dish with a choice from chorizo, olives, jalapenos, mushrooms or bacon. Or of course the whole lot if you're feeling that way.

Pastas include fettuccine with salmon, prawns, coconut, spring onions and chilli, chef's choice risotto, or lasagne with chicken, blue cheese and spinach. For the big event there is always a fish of the day on request. The steak burger with Swiss cheese, bacon, relish and fries is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. The calves' liver with mash, pancetta and baby onions is worth trying too. For hearty eaters there are good fillet steaks with horseradish Chantilly, green beans and frites or rack of lamb with asparagus.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes whipped potato, Belgian frites and mayo, and greens, leeks and peas. For those who have to be lashed to a plank to induce them to eat root vegetables, try them here, honey roasted and altogether different from the all too often pallid steamed variety. For desserts resort to the blackboard, where there is always a good display, often with some of the local cheeses to set the buffs alight.

The Merlin stocks a wide range of beers, both well-loved draught ales and bottled from Europe, such as Leffe and Belle vue Kriek. The wine list covers plenty of territory from traditional clarets to Pinot Grigio, and champagne by the glass or bottle is always available. Service is cheerful, brisk and totally in keeping with the friendly nature of a good English gastropub.

Keep in regular touch and get further details by means of their informative Website. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.