Abode hotels are on the march, the latest in Canterbury, with the mix much as in the others under the reassuring guidance of Michael Caines fresh from his leadership from the front after having a major hand in cooking the Queen's birthday celebration lunch. The boutique hotel is a masterpiece of redesign by Plumtree Mee and the dining room in particular, in muted shades of non-gloss, is restful and calming.

Which is just as well because the menu is something to get excited about, starting with a choice of seven dishes that could include ballotine of quail with leeks and summer truffle, pan fried red mullet, or ravioli of Kent lobster with Savoy cabbage and lobster bisque.

Roast best end of Romney marsh lamb with creamed vegetables and a brochette of lambs saddle and kidney leads the mains, with roast breast of guinea fowl, pan fried wild sea trout, and sirloin of Kentish beef all making regular appearances could make this one of the best meals you have enjoyed for quite a while. I still think wild sea trout remains one of the best fish dishes there is.

Great attention is paid to the cheeses here, with Lanark Blue, Grimbister, Waterloo and Brucklay amongst others often to be encountered, leaving only the pudding with Scottish cranachan soufflé or a classic apple tart tatin supported by vanilla ice cream and butterscotch sauce amongst the six or so choices.