Michael Caines at ABode Exeter

This seems to be the West Country's answer to a Gastrodome, comprising of so many outlets under one roof: you can enjoy a flute of champagne in the Moët et Chandon Champagne Bar; a full à la carte meal in the Michael Caines Restaurant; a freshly baked croissant or gourmet sandwich in the Café Bar, or a pint and pub lunch in The Well House Tavern.

Whilst it would be uncharitable to ignore the steady and continuing star-studded rise of Michael Caines - he is best known for being Head Chef at the Michelin starred Gidleigh Park since 1994 - there are so many other superlatives that belong to this operation. For instance, the view from the smart dining room of Exeter's ancient Cathedral in all its floodlit glory. In his introduction, Michael Caines mentions his hope that people from all walks may be able to eat at his restaurant - would that this was so, but I fear that Mr and Mrs Average might find themselves a trifle stretched.

Be that as it may, what is on offer is truly excellent and for those who like well-hung game the pheasant with lentil stuffing and black pudding is an experience to remember. The wine list offers a wide choice and four house wines at £16.00 are good value.