Middleton Arms, The

One of those traditional old Yorkshire pubs where gentrification has not been allowed inside the door and an air of natural charm pervades the cosy rooms, with the oak furniture and blazing fire supportive of a lazy comfort inside this pleasant 17th century inn.

The pub also had the distinction of being ahead of the game by declaring itself Ryedale's first completely non-smoking country inn, though naturally everywhere is non-smoking now.

All of which goes to set the stage for an approach to the menu which makes the best of the naturally good produce and ingredients that are an essential part of Yorkshire. Layers of black pudding and sauté potato are topped with a free range fried egg and circled with red jelly to make what is called locally a black pudding stack. Baby prawns and smoked salmon are bound in a homemade lemon and dill mayonnaise, with slices of avocado sprinkled with chopped walnuts and drizzled with walnut oil to create a toothsome seafood starter.

Moving on to the main event consider the griddled Glaves t-bone steak, served with a choice of sauces or the traditional onion rings, tomatoes, mushrooms and chunky home-cut chips. Lamb shank has become a popular dish in recent years, and here it is slow-cooked with root vegetables, red wine and the local ale. On a mode modern note there is a duck confit, slow-roasted with juniper berries and bay leaves, then finished with a plum and Madeira sauce.

For puddings there is an interesting and eclectic selection, starting with a sturdy carrot and cinnamon pudding, well laced with hot butterscotch sauce. Straying over the border is the Scottish dessert, cranachan, a rich, creamy affair containing raspberries, honey and whisky. If the juicy mixed fruit crumble is on, go for it. The fruit content is variable, so ask; it comes served with ice cream or custard. It?s not often you see a good old-fashioned lemon posit nowadays, but you will here, delightfully light but still a bit naughty.

In Yorkshire you are never far from Wensleydale where some of the best cheeses in Britain are made. Watch out in particular for the sensational blue variety.

The Middleton Arms changed hands in 2005, and is now run by Andrew Green and Joanne Goff, who have previous experience of Yorkshire pubs; it seems clear that they are presently doing for Ryedale what they did for Herriot's Hotel and Restaurant in Hawes.