Monro, The

The Monro, arguably Liverpool's most notable gastropub, flies in the face of fashion to produce surroundings which have more than a flavour of home about them, unless of course you happen to inhabit a stately home in which case you'll feel entirely at ease. The question is asked "are you really comfortable eating or drinking under the glare of halogen spotlights?" Which when you come to think about it not infrequently evinces the answer "no".

So at The Monro there is subdued lighting, no beech or laminates and a replacement of chic with comfortable and reassuring décor that does not shout for attention. Lunch is served from 12 until 3pm, with the evening meal starting at 5 until 10pm. They have introduced a fish menu for lunch at a mere £5 including a glass of wine, only using fish recommended by The Marine Conservation Society .

Unlike some gastropubs - and others - where reliance is placed upon pre-packed ingredients, The Monro depends very much upon fresh supplies, some of them organic in origin, and their names read like a roll-call of honour with Welsh lamb rump, wild goose and duck, Devon mussels and crab, Northwich rabbit pie, Cheshire wild boar, Lancashire ostrich and Ayrshire steak all appearing regularly on the menu.

The net, truly, is widely cast. The result of all this is that people have an implicit faith in what is presented on the table, chefs take increased pride in their work and everybody is happy.

For the evening meal starters will include a fresh soup, changed every day, but if you are looking for something a touch extra special order the Northsea Chowder, thick fish soup made from what the market has to offer and served with a warm brioche. The Mediterranean tartlet is filled with vegetables of that area roasted in basil oil and garlic, served with redpepper jam and drizzled with tzatziki. Mushroom madness represents a new angle on the humble fungus, with button mushrooms sautéed in garlic and a lemon infused butter, topped with Muscadet and baked with fresh chillies and Brie, served with crusty bread.

Where else to eat Scouse Stew than in Liverpool? The recipe is a highly prized house secret and sharing the plate will be crusty bread, beetroot, pickled onions and red cabbage. Scouse stew materialised in Liverpool in the 18th century as a dish for sailors and was therefore widely exported, assuming many different forms in the process.

Angus steaks come in all the customary forms accompanied by the sauce of your choice, which depend upon it, has never seen the inside of a packet. The fish range from red snapper to halibut, again dependent upon the market, and include what is breezily listed as "posh fish and chips" which is essentially cod and chips in beer batter, or, if you really insist, they will batter and deep-fry whatever other fish is on the menu. The tartare sauce is, of course, home made, the chips are chunky.

From all of which you will deduce that there is no possibility of perishing from gastronomic boredom at The Monro. The wine list is short and punchy and designed for honest drinking. Do not look for the great clarets here, but do be prepared for house champagne at less than £23 a cork and a range of very drinkable wines under the £20 mark. It is places like The Monro that give gastropubs a good name. However, their Website would give you an even better idea of the place, so do visit that.