The Monro, arguably Liverpool's most notable gastropub, flies in the face of fashion to produce surroundings which have more than a flavour of home about them, unless of course you happen to inhabit a stately home in which case you'll feel entirely at ease. The question is asked "are you really comfortable eating or drinking under the glare of halogen spotlights?" Which when you come to think about it not infrequently evinces the answer "no".

So at The Monro there is subdued lighting, no beech or laminates and a replacement of chic with comfortable and reassuring décor that does not shout for attention. Lunch is served from 12 until 3pm, with the evening meal starting at 5 until 10pm.

Unlike some gastropubs - and others - where reliance is placed upon pre-packed ingredients, The Monro depends very much upon fresh supplies, some of them organic in origin, and their names read like a roll-call of honour with smoked salmon with asparagus and poached duck egg and hollandaise sauce, caramelized pear and celery tartlet with creamed goats? cheese, served with fresh salad leaves and balsamic dressing, crisp belly pork with Lyonnaise potatoes, red snapper with jersey royals, and butterflied lemon sole stuffed with prawn.

The net, truly, is widely cast. The result of all this is that people have an implicit faith in what is presented on the table, chefs take increased pride in their work and everybody is happy.

For the evening meal starters will include a fresh soup, changed every day, and creamed leek and artichoke tartlet with watercress salad and tomato dressing. Mushroom madness represents a new angle on the humble fungus, with a unique combination of it with pan-fried duck livers in bacon, and cooked in a red wine jus.

10oz rib-eye steak comes with wild mushrooms and peppercorn sauce and homemade chunky chips whilst Cajun spiced monkfish tail comes with beetroot salsa, braised rice and a rocket and parmesan salad. The fish range from red snapper to halibut, again dependent upon the market, and include what is breezily listed as "posh fish and chips" which is essentially cod and chips in beer batter, or, if you really insist, they will batter and deep-fry whatever other fish is on the menu. The tartare sauce is, of course, home made, the chips are chunky.

From all of which you will deduce that there is no possibility of perishing from gastronomic boredom at The Monro. The wine list is short and punchy and designed for honest drinking. Do not look for the great clarets here, but do be prepared for house champagne at less than £23 a cork and a range of very drinkable wines under the £20 mark. It is places like The Monro that give gastropubs a good name. However, their Website would give you an even better idea of the place, so do visit that.