The contribution of what might be termed the Second Italian Renaissance, or as one wit more aptly put it, "Portmeirion in pink Formica", to the sum total of British décor is recognised not only by the admirers of the continental greasy spoon, but more recently by English Heritage who see this as an art form under threat. Good for them!

What matters to us is the easy-eating food and drink that is served up with great gusto, the gushing coffee from the machine that simmers and splutters behind the counter, the fry-ups, the Italian cuisine providing staple favourites, the wonderfully indulgent confections with all the glitz and contours of a female country and western vocalist. In all of these matters Morelli's does not disappoint. Let's hope English Heritage also regard the cuisine as part of the preservation scene and does not start insisting on terribly nutritious salads and organic coke, if such a thing exists.