Morgan Arms, The

Take a detour off the Mile End Road, and enter an oasis within a cultural desert. The Morgan Arms is situated on the edge of Tredegar Square, a kind of Cockney Eaton Square where a banker rubs elbows with a builder, and life outside the pub gets put on hold. Whatever the punter, they will probably be enjoying a pint of Timothy Taylor Landlord or Aspall Cyder from Suffolk.

What cannot go unnoticed is the food. It's a gourmet's heaven, with dishes that change every day and prides itself on the unusual ingredients the chef uses. The concise and simply-executed menu may include starters of devilled whitebait, lemon and tartare sauce; baked goats' cheese, French bean and walnut salad with toast and mustard dressing, and spiced chicken livers with carrot mint and radish salad.

Main courses are quite straightforward and The Morgan classic fishcakes accompanied by wilted spinach, poached eggs and cream sauce make a nice contrast to pork loin Cordon Bleu surrounded by broccoli and bashed sweet potato.

Lovers of red meat may prefer the Scottish 28 day matured rib-eye steak with runner beans, julienne fried and red wine jus, or the roasted lamb rump with olive crushed Jersey Royals, red onion, caper and anchovy relish.

Platters to offer a little bit of everything come in the shape of a nibbles board. You can try six different choices including feta-stuffed chillies, and roasted garlic cloves. Leave room for the dessert sampler's four chocolate puds of morsel sizes, served assiette style.

The globetrotting wine list includes bins from around the world including South Africa, Australia and New Zealand and has been assembled byJohn Clevely, a Master of Wine. John is a man for whom the norm is a direct challenge, an approach that produces some interesting results. Supporting him on the longer drinks is Ed Turner, whose passion for lager is both forensic and almost certainly unique.

In April 2005 The Morgan was announced as the Evening Standard's Pub of the Year for 2005. This remarkable pub, upon which the Geronimo seal of individuality sits well, has a beautifully carved and inscribed bar, stained glass windows and shelves stacked with books and other knick knacks.

For further information, including directions on finding the pub, visit their Website, which also has details of the other pubs owned by Geronimo Inns.