Morgan Meunier has had a glittering career since he arrived on these shores in the late 'nineties, and his latest port of call after the Admiralty is Islington, or as one wit remarked 'from hard labour to New Labour'. Since Morgan M opened in September 2003 it has been plaudits all the way, the latest being a Restaurant Remy Award in 2004.

Experimentation is the name of the game, but not for the sake of it and unsuccessful gambits rarely see the light of day. Such compilations as diver-caught scallops with white chicory tarte tatin and an onion soubise delight him, as does the starter of ravioli of snails in Chablis, poached garlic and red wine jus. For the latter dish the garlic is poached three times to make it more digestible, a typical fine detail of Morgan Meunier's accomplished approach, involving the combination of opposites to make something unique that you are unlikely to come across on your table at home.

His six course dinner is a classic masterpiece. As one customer remarked, 'Morgan M is every bit as good as Ramsay, but comes at about half the price'.