This grade 2 listed building is now a five star hotel for today, unashamadely modern, yet wrapped in a fine building redolent of yesterday. You'll find fresh local fish, succulent steaks, luscious Welsh lamb, garden fresh greens and simply divine desserts.

Housed in the former boardroom, Morgans is a stylish and sophisticated restaurant, the sort of place it is a real pleasure to see in a location other than London, and clearly meeting a need. Décor and fittings are solid but suave. It is doubtful if somebody seeking to create a top class restaurant in Swansea could have found a better location.

The wild mushroom risotto with rocket and truffle oil makes an elegant and appropriate starter, though the salmon and crab potato cakes are almost worth it for the delicately flavoured garlic and saffron sauce alone. Not one to be normally tempted by vegetarian dishes my eye caught the coulibiac, normally a fish dish of Russian origin, made from roasted vegetables and basmati rice and wrapped in a light pastry. More to my liking, however trite, was the fillet of Welsh black beef, offered au poivre or Bearnaise, served with a delicate vegetable dauphinoise.

And so to the pudding department where many may be captivated by the pot au chocolat served with a prune and Armagnac ice cream. For the more traditional an interesting variation on an old favourite is offered in the form of bread and butter pudding with oatmeal ice cream. A good touch is the recommendation of two dessert wines - my goodness, before you know where you are they'll be offering a savoury course.

After that none too subtle hint may I commend to you the wine list which matches well the overall elegance of the entire operation. House wine at £13.50.